How to Decode Generator Specs Without Being an Engineer

Let’s be real — trying to make sense of generator specs can feel like falling into a black hole of technical jargon. You start out thinking, “I just need something to keep the lights on,” and ten minutes later, you’re drowning in terms like kVA, voltage phases, fuel efficiency… and you’re not even sure what half of it means.

If you’re in that boat, you’re not alone. The good news? You don’t need a background in engineering to figure this stuff out. You just need someone to explain it without turning it into a physics lecture.

Now, if you’re already checking out options and want to skip the explanation part, you can see the range here. But if you’d rather get a handle on what all those numbers and terms actually mean, let’s take it step by step.

First Things First: Watts and Kilowatts

So let’s talk about watts. Or more often, kilowatts — written as kW. This is the one most people pay attention to because it tells you how much power the generator can produce.

To make it simple:

• A 2 kW generator? Good for camping, charging a few devices, maybe running a light or two.

• Around 5 to 8 kW? That’ll usually keep essential things running in a home during an outage — fridge, lights, maybe the microwave or TV.

• Go past 10 kW and you’re looking at powering most of a house or running tools on a job site.
  
  

The number you want depends on what you plan to plug in. Add up the wattage of everything you want to run at once. And always leave yourself a little breathing room — running your generator flat out all the time isn’t great for it long-term.

What’s the Deal with kVA?

Okay, now onto kVA — short for kilovolt-amperes. You’ll see this term a lot, especially with bigger generators. And yes, it sounds a bit confusing. Here’s the easiest way to think about it:

kVA tells you what the generator could supply in theory. kW tells you what it will actually deliver in real life.

In most cases, you can take the kVA number and multiply it by 0.8 to get the rough kW output. So a 10 kVA generator would give you about 8 kW of usable power. Unless you’re running something really unusual, that’s the number you’ll care about most.

Voltage and Phases (Don’t Worry, It’s Not That Bad)

This one scares people off, but it’s not as complex as it seems.

In most homes, appliances run on single-phase power — 230 volts in Australia. That’s the standard wall socket.

Three-phase power (usually 415 volts) is used more in commercial setups — think farms, workshops, or anywhere you’ve got big machinery to run.

If you’re looking for backup power at home? Stick with single-phase. If you’re powering a shed full of gear or tools? You might need three-phase. That’s really all there is to it.

Picking a Fuel Type

Now for fuel. This is where things start to come down to lifestyle and personal preference.

Diesel generators are the heavy-duty workhorses. They last longer, handle bigger loads, and they’re more fuel-efficient if you’re running them for hours at a time.

Petrol generators are usually cheaper upfront and fine for lighter use — like a few hours during a power cut, or the odd weekend job.

LPG/Natural Gas is clean and quiet, which is nice if you’ve already got gas at your place.

Inverter generators are the quietest and easiest to move. If you’re powering sensitive gear like laptops, these are great.

No one fuel type is “best” — it just depends how often you’ll use the generator, and what for.

Let’s Talk Noise

Generators can get noisy. Some are loud enough to shake the walls, others are quiet enough that you’ll forget they’re running. If noise matters to you — maybe you live in a residential area or just value your peace — then pay attention to the decibel rating (dB).

60 dB is roughly the sound of a normal conversation. If a generator runs at 70–75 dB, it’s not outrageous, but you’ll hear it. If it’s hitting 80 or more, you’re definitely going to know it’s there.

Some newer models come with soundproof covers or “silent” modes. Worth it, especially if the thing’s going to be running near your home or workplace.

Fuel Tank and Run Time

Here’s something people forget to check: how long it’ll run before needing more fuel.

Some generators burn through their tanks in a few hours, others can keep going 10–12 hours without a break. It depends on the fuel tank size and how much of the generator’s power you’re using (that’s called the “load”).

If you’re only using it for emergencies, short run times might be fine. But if you’re planning for long power outages or full-day jobs? Go for something that doesn’t need refueling every couple of hours.

Portability — Do You Need It?

This one’s simple: if you’re going to move the generator around, even just occasionally, check the weight and whether it has wheels or handles.

Smaller generators are usually fine to carry. Bigger ones? Not so much. Some of them weigh over 100kg. Even with wheels, moving them across gravel or grass can be a workout.

If it’s going to sit in one spot permanently, portability doesn’t matter. But if you’ll be dragging it to job sites or events, don’t skip this part.

Extra Features That Might Be Worth It

There’s always a bunch of add-ons mentioned in spec sheets. Some are just fluff, but others can make a real difference:

• Auto-start: If the power goes out, the generator starts up on its own. Great for home backup.
  
  

• ATS compatible: ATS = Automatic Transfer Switch. Lets your system switch from mains to generator without you lifting a finger.
  
  

• Low oil shutdown: Sounds boring, but it’ll save your generator from burning out.
  
  

• Digital display: Nice for seeing how much power you’re using and how long the fuel will last. Not a must-have, but handy.
  
  

Final Thoughts (Without the Tech Talk)

At the end of the day, choosing a generator shouldn’t give you a headache. You just need to figure out a few basics: how much power you need, what fuel you’d prefer, and whether you want something quiet or portable.

You don’t have to understand every technical detail on the spec sheet. Just enough to know what fits your needs — and what doesn’t.

Once you’ve got the hang of it, reading generator specs won’t feel like decoding alien language anymore. You’ll know exactly what to look for, and more importantly, what to ignore.